5:00 A.M. is when dark skies give way to shepherd’s delight. And Léa Peckre’s Fall/Winter 2016collection at Paris Fashion Week was about bringing dichotomous variables together, and exploring the cusp of their juncture. Sheer gowns exposed high-cut bodysuits, while turtleneck sweaters with warped seams masked the upper torso. Brash logo appliques, common in sportswear collections, were shown as the contemporary equivalent of romantic floral embroidery, both of which were splashed simultaneously across several pieces. A traditional felted wool jacket with a vaguely ‘90s shape was shown alongside neo-minimal plastic trousers.
Peckre used plastic and drawstring cord techniques prolifically this season. They often played the futuristic counterpart to her use of natural textiles and elasticized hems. Loose trousers and baggy coats that fell over the shoulder were cinched with a tie at the waist, while gathers were sculpturally arranged like ripples across a pond surface, using cords and toggles to pull strategically at each garment. Some of these felt sinuous, adding a serpentine sex appeal to the short dresses, while others took the shape of airy ruffles, lightly feminine and delicate. Peckre’s collection elaborately studies the relationship between complementary elements. The end result is direct, concise and beautiful.